Width (fin area only): Leave blank if ordering with a radiator. Height (fin area only): Leave blank if ordering with a radiator. Total Thickness wo/Fan(s) 1/2" (No fan(s) included) Just supply us with all of the dimensions listed below and we'll take care of the rest. Need the mounting tabs in a special location? No problem. Don't need a fan but need a hole for your supplied fan? No problem.
The shrouds are available with or without a fan. Our aluminum shrouds have a standard depth of 1/2" without the fan so they don’t rob you of precious engine space. Why not utilize the WHOLE core? Let us make you an aluminum shroud that covers the entire core giving you the maximum temperature drop. The photos and captions show the simple installation and the following information from Cool Craft illustrates what specifications and measurements were needed to complete this installation. However, it’s better to supply the simple measurements they need so they can cut the hole and attach the fan mounts. The shroud can be ordered with the hole at any location or supplied without a hole and you can cut it out once you determine where to locate the fan. The 1/2-inch thick shroud clears easily but the 16-inch diameter fan had to be moved to the top of the shroud for clearance. I only have 2-5/8-inches between the core and the shaft on the pump. The Buick Nailhead sits low in the frame and clearance between the thick radiator core and the water pump make the use of the stock fan impractical. My ’32 Ford hi-boy roadster proved to be the perfect application for this unit. Tabs on the side of the shroud attach to the flanges on the radiator side plates with sheet metal screws. It’s made up of a 1/2-inch thick formed-aluminum shroud and one or multiple electric thin-line fans. Fan manufacturers have continued to reduce the thickness of the fans and now there is a shroud from Cool Craft that when combined with the fan only measures 2-5/8-inches thick. They are thin and can be located anywhere on the face of the core, though near the top is recommended because in top-to-bottom flow radiators hot coolant is returning there from the engine.Ī shroud makes these much more effective but most of the shrouds have moved the fan back from the core too far. Electric powered fans offer the best alternative. This makes the traditional mechanical fan/shroud combo impractical. In many applications the engine sits too low in the frame and has limited clearance at the front of the engine. A shroud covering the entire core area and funneling the airflow out the rear opening makes this even more efficient. A multi-bladed fan attached to the water pump hub, driven by the engine, offers the most efficient means of doing this. To increase airflow at slower speeds a fan is used to draw air through the radiator. However, at idle or in stop-and-go traffic not enough air flows across the tubes and fins to keep the engine cool. This additional coolant capacity and heat transfer area does the job at highway speeds.
Increased cooling capacity cannot be attained by making the radiator core bigger so the core has to be made thicker by adding more rows of tubes. Grille areas are narrow and the engine bays are small. Product supplied by Cool Craft Big engines in early hot rods create unique cooling problems. TLDR: Direct drive is a must have for soft filaments, but for hard filaments the pro’s aren’t as significant.Photos and story by Jim Clark, the Hot Rod M.D.
Let me know if you end up doing it and how it goes! I’m still waiting on feedback to see if there are any changes I should make to the design:) But if you’re looking to dip your toes in the world of modding it’s a good cost effective and easy first mod:) At least on the ender 3 some say that you get better PLA print quality but I’m not convinced that it makes much of a difference. It also lets you prints go alittle quicker by letting you use smaller retraction distances, but not as significant as the soft filaments, you’ll maybe save around 10-20min on a 4hr print. For example one of my prints went from 5hrs with 2 jams, to 3.5hrs with no jams so a huge difference! Hard filaments like PLA don’t really have that compression issue but if you’re getting a lot of stringing the Direct drive might help. The result is much shorter print times and less stringing with soft filaments like TPU. This allows for faster print speeds, faster retraction speeds, and shorter retraction distances. With less bowden tube length on the direct drive setup there’s less compression meaning a more direct relationship between the extruder and the hotend. It makes a huge difference for soft filaments which naturally compress inside the bowden tube.
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